Scio cheese z1felt

Image: Jake Stangel

SITUATED IN A NARROW parking lot flanking Wilson High School’s track, Hillsdale Farmers Market is a true neighborhood institution, drawing 85 percent of its basket-toting visitors from within five miles. And though at summer’s height, Hillsdale does offer the classic Sunday idyll of a casual market stroll, people are really here to shop—not to meander, people-watch, or sample whatever they can get their mitts on. “At another market, I’ll sell a peach,” says Trevor Baird of Baird Family Orchards, who’s been at the market since day one. “At Hillsdale, I’ll sell a whole box.” Such devoted clientele earns Hillsdale its gritty reputation as one of few markets that forges on throughout the year, open every other week during the colder months. And according to market manager Eamon Molloy, just about as many people come in winter as in summer. Sundays 10–2 (weekly from May 1)


Ancient Heritage Dairy
Early summer is the best time to swing by the Ancient Heritage stall, where sweet, round wedges of sheep’s milk cheeses from Scio reign supreme. Until July, look for the irresistible Valentine, a buttery soft-ripened cheese.

The Smokery
The sumptuous hunks of salmon on display at the Smokery’s booth bring a welcome taste of old Ireland to Portland. Seasoned with salt, brown sugar, molasses, onion powder, garlic powder, and dill and smoked just down the road by Dublin native Michael Jacobs, the Old Irish–style hot-smoked wild salmon keeps for six to eight weeks—but it’ll probably vanish within hours.


During Tastebud’s ode to lunch hour, luscious slices of lamb from SuDan Farm are topped with a deftly employed combination of wheat berries, roasted veggies, pesto, hummus, and fresh greens, all tucked messily inside a perfectly grilled crescent of pita bread.

This article appeared in the May 2011 issue of Portland Monthly.
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