A culinary poet and dessert artist, chef Justin Woodward splices seasonal high points, technical feats, and concentrated sauces into spare compositions of strange beauty. His best ideas are excitedly out of the box, among them an edible “terrarium” with dreamy onion custard and hypergreen onion-stalk purée standing in for soil beneath a greenhouse of backyard leaves and flowers. The room is quiet; the focus is food. You are here for the elaborate tasting menu. But, you could always simply slip in for the Michelin-star-caliber “dessert flight” that somehow remains Portland’s best-kept secret. Castagna’s more casual sister spot, Café Castagna (1758 SE Hawthorne Blvd, 503- 231-9959), recently acquired brunch service and a Middle Eastern accent, with dishes like orange-scented sausages, honeyed haloumi, and roast game hens, thanks to ambitious new chef Wesley Johnson.