Unlike Portland’s celebrated brood of self-taught rebels, Castagna's Justin Woodward earned pastry stripes at Manhattan’s famed modern food lab WD-50, logged two months at Nordic game-changer Noma, and served as trusted Hand of the King to Matt Lightner, the culinary radical who departed Castagna in 2011 and promptly won two Michelin stars at his New York restaurant, Atera. In this celebrated food city, it’s safe to say he’s the best chef you’ve never heard of. Come with an open mind and an evening to burn. Exquisite food is the focus, pure and simple. Far from Portland’s freewheeling small-plate, comfort-food revolution, Castagna choreographs every milli-bite in tiered dishes. You can master Woodward 101 in three easy courses—two options per category, perfect for sharing, and, at $55 total, a steal for this level of cooking. Or you can settle in for the night (seriously, block out four hours) and embrace the tasting menu for $95. Either option includes a bonus: shockingly good dinner rolls dispatched with smoky whipped lardo.