Just a short jump off of the Sunset Highway in a strip mall next to Tanasbourne, a slice of India percolates. Be prepared for rustic delicacies, particularly dishes labeled Chettinad, a region in food-adventurous southern India. Full immersion means an appetizer of fried lentil-flour doughnuts called thairr vada or slowcooked mugalai lamb koorma. Go for the head-turning, three-foot-long “family dosa” or get adventurous with the chile-sparked Uttapam dosa. Holler for a mango lassi to cool the heat.