Years after the media noise dimmed, Clarklewis has emerged with a new identity: Portland’s best business-appropriate eatery, with a focused kitchen and beautiful space to match. White cloths now cover the tables, but the former warehouse space maintains the original flavor of casual cool from its former era. Huge garage doors hang agape around the entire building, the smell of smoke pumps from the open wood-fired oven, and an attentive staff stands within reach. Seasonal, contemporary American fare boasts simple salads, rich ragùs, and Oregon-sourced meats, from tender wild sturgeon to charred SuDan lamb leg. Clarklewis’s consistent menu comes alive at lunch, when solid flavor profiles and the occasional out-of-the-park sandwich mingle with approachable ingredients attuned to the seasons. In a city of communal tables and pig parts, Clarklewis has found its niche in a stepped-up, accessible menu, with enough charm to impress a discerning client—or worse, a finicky parent.