Lardo is living the ultimate food-cart fantasy. In 2010, chef Rick Gencarelli, fresh from an upscale farm-to-table eatery in Vermont, migrated to Portland and opened a sandwich cart. His decadent creations tapped a zeitgeist trifecta: local ingredients (broccoli raab, heirloom tomatoes, Tails and Trotters pork), traditional Italian meats (handmade mortadella), and thoughtful ethnic spins (hello, pork meatball banh mi!). With a devoted following and a surplus of buzz, Gencarelli stretched out into two brick-and-mortar locations, adding well-chosen taps, full cocktail menus, and more meaty sandwiches. From the lard-fried frites to a pork belly–topped “double burger” to the real find of mortadella and marinated peppers, the options live up to the over-the-top name.