Let us take the chile relleno served at this vibrant and bustling eatery as an example of what Mexican cuisine should be. Instead of the usual battered and deep-fried Tex-Mex fiasco we’re used to, the chile relleno here consists, quite simply, of roasted poblano peppers stuffed with shredded pork that’s been seasoned with pineapple and orange juice, then spiked with almonds and raisins, all topped with a refreshingly spicy tomato sauce. In other words, rather than being oily and stuffed full of cheese, it’s fresh, subtle, and flavorful. The latter description applies to just about every dish on the menu here, from the rich, authentic mexican meatballs known as albondigas—served in a hearty and slightly spicy broth—to the tacos de puerco, the piquant ceviche, the squash blossom soup, and the creamy, smooth flan, not to mention the assertive margaritas. And with chewy, palm-size, house-made tortillas coming fresh off the press every few minutes, there’s no reason to doubt that the inspiration for this upscale, polished restaurant comes from exactly the right place: the ever-beating corazón of Mexico.