Portland’s go-to destination for intimate fine dining is a Victorian house perched over a hair salon in a residential neighborhood. Nearly two decades ago, Kimberly and Vitaly Paley bailed from New York’s restaurant world for Portland, where they invested in farmers, not décor, and helped jump-start a new Northwest cuisine. Over the years they’ve won a coveted James Beard Award, penned a coffee-table cookbook, and ushered in nightly packed houses for food that can be earthy, whimsical, or decadent. The kitchen is still giddy with energy, juggling house classics—perfect mussels and hand-cut fries, exquisite bone marrow towers knee-deep in red wine sauce and fat escargot—and mad creativity. Testarossa (pighead) à la Cryovac, anyone?