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The menu of small and large plates varies with the wanderings of chef-owner Scott Dolich and chef de cuisine Ethan Snyder at this little North Park Blocks gem, one of the first of a new class of local eateries ushering in the city’s finest era of dining when it opened in 2003. A hardy forager, Dolich knows just what to buy and when: roots, mushrooms, and greens just wrestled from the earth, applied to dishes like porcini bread pudding with fava beans. The kitchen combines eclectic influences and seasonal, yet often disparate, ingredients in rambunctious medleys that can be wonderful or weird. Soups can be outstanding, and the tempura-fried green beans and spears of salty bacon, served in a paper cone, could embarrass a french fry.

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