Your fingers will travel four pages before they find any sushi standbys on the sprawling dinner menu here. But those first three pages, filled with some 75 small plates, are the soul of Syun Izakaya, an upbeat Japanese restaurant in downtown Hillsboro. Our advice: order as many as you can. A buttery fillet of grilled cod slicked with a sweet Kyoto-style miso sauce deserves your full attention. So does the maguro yamakake, small cubes of raw tuna mixed with mountain yam and white radish, and topped with confetti-size flakes of dried seaweed. Or make things easy by ordering the izakaya set, a sampling of four classic dishes that includes braised pork belly, octopus in kimchi sauce, deep-fried fish cakes, and seared slices of rare albacore. Wash it all down with sake, of course.