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Chef Oswaldo Bibiano’s cramped kitchen churns out an impressive lineup singing inside tiny, house-pressed corn tortillas. A collection of well-calibrated salsas in every hue of the chile spectrum greets you at a help-yourself station. Tender barbacoa brisket gains extra flavor from avocado leaves and juicy endiablado prawns live up to their devilish billing. The best choices are also the most daring: dark burgundy crumbles of Bibiano’s signature moronga (blood sausage) or charred curls of pulpo (octopus) in a magnificence of red chile powder, epazote, and lime. 

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