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When waxing poetic about burgers, the veggie versions are usually little more than a punch line. It’s understandable — most restaurants offer the same old over-cooked Boca or Gardenburger, or they think that veg-heads will be sated with any patty that contains beans or soy, even if it’s crumbly, pasty, or flavorless. But there are exceptions to this rule, and I have three “best-of-the-best” local examples to prove it. Of course, “best” is a subjective term and...

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