Just a few weeks in, Gibson is delivering something akin to a “best of” playbook of dishes from his past, from clean, bright slices of scallop crudo drizzled with Meyer lemon olive oil to buttery, crisped egg noodles (his grandmother’s recipe) soaked in meat juices from a fist of slow-cooked goulash. The 14-item menu comes with no delineation: everything runs between appetizer and entrée size—but Gibson insists, “not small plates.” The wine list is plenty geeky for those looking, affordable (several bottles priced near $20), and—most important—dictated by the food. As for cocktails, Davenport only shakes the classics, no tinctures allowed.

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