In 2005, Eric Bechard splashed onto Portland's food scene with Alberta Street Oyster Bar, an edgy, seafood-focused restaurant with good wine and fresh oysters. After a brief stint in Seattle, he made his way to McMinnville in 2009 to open his much-loved farm-to-table restaurant, Thistle. Eight years after Oyster Bar, Bechard is back in Portland with visions of wild game, foraged greens, and offal play. His new restaurant on the busy street corner of SE César E. Chávez and Lincoln takes us through the “Kingdom of Roosevelt” (in reference to the species of Northwest elk), with the menu headings “Raw and Cured, Eggs in Various Forms, Fruits of the Forest and Field, On the Bone, and Finish” as our guide.

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