For nearly 40 years, Oregon’s chardonnays were – quite rightly overlooked. Too many of them were made from the rather dull California grape clone called "108." Different clones create noticeable nuances in taste, just as a Fuji apple differs from a McIntosh or a red delicious. The chardonnay clones used in almost all Oregon vineyards today-called "Dijon," after the French city in which they were developed-produce far livelier wines. Here are four that will reintroduce you to the depth and complexity of great chardonnay.

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