It’s barely pulled its first shots, but this ambitious spot celebrating Italy’s greatest exports—espresso and vermouth—is already one of the city’s most exciting places to drink. San Francisco bar star Kate Bolton and Hale Pele “tiki guy” Blair Reynolds dive headfirst into fortified wines, putting them center stage behind a marble bar graffitied with Italian futurist art. Drinking commences at 7 a.m. with house-roasted coffees and a boozy brunch Shakerato—a cool, frothy, bitter-on-bitter espresso drink shaken with cream and amaro. At night, vermouth-heavy cocktails, Rob Roys to manhattans, and effervescent Campari sippers rule, while the kitchen churns out whimsical plates and long-lost James Beard staples, like “jellyroll” eggs with salmon and chèvre. Any bar that can thrive at the intersection of coffee, vermouth, and Beard himself is doing something right.