ChickpeaDX, Israeli-born Yair Maidan’s food-cart experiment, delivers the shocking exception: with spice-mad formulas in every crevice, this sandwich is calculated to make taste buds reel with glee. To begin, a disc of grilled pita. To finish, salty drizzles of puréed mango pickles, or the chunky smolder of Maidan’s zhug—all garlic, cilantro, toasted spices, and green heat. In between, sink your teeth into layers of reverential tahini beaming lime and Sriracha; fried eggplant slivers; artful falafel spheres (shockingly light and herbaceous); pickled carrot ribbons high on orange juice and cumin; and tomato-cuke relish zapped with serranos and sumac. The sea has parted.