The DIY decor has been replaced by tush-friendly lipstick-red banquettes, teeny bird portals, and big antlers over a sign reading “The Kitchen.” Instead of an edgy party vibe, you’ll find urban romance perfumed with Northwest noir, Charlie Parker, and marrow butter. The food is more familiar—if not still richer than Paul Allen—and the vaunted burgers are now available day and night. Little Bird, the ant...

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