ON A COOLISH AFTERNOON in June, 65 food lovers—families, a small flock of LA refugees, and a posse of French-speaking oenophiles—convened around two long tables covered in white linen, big Ikea plates, and bursting peonies for three hours to savor four courses of some of the best food to be found, farm-picked, fresh-butchered, and wood-fired just steps away. Serve...

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