Since the departure of longtime chef David Anderson in December of 2012, the menu at Southeast Belmont's Genoa has undergone a slow but sure metamorphosis from refined Italian to ingredient-driven modernism under new leading man Jake Martin. The February menu—with highlights like tender leek-wrapped sole perched on a dark slash of sepia mascarpone, a salad of curly compressed cucumbers and black olives, and crispy-skinned chicken with savory smoked mussles—shows how far Martin has come since his days at Fenouil.

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