A beer is just a beer. But a beer gulped as AC/DC’s “Highway to Hell” screams from the speakers? That’s a statement of intent. Great jukeboxes not only enhance a bar—they can lift us out of the murky abyss of mere dive-dom. Take Billy Ray’s. Its cavelike recesses might seem vaguely threatening at first, but listen to the litany of first-wave grunge like Mudhoney and Tad booming through the gloom, and it seems more like a Gen-X petting zoo.