Some 30 years ago, someone must have spent a pile of money on the décor at this fading Chinese restaurant and bar on SE 82nd Ave. Back then, a visit here likely promised an exotic treat for families enthralled with the mysteries of egg foo yong and kung pao chicken. While the novelty may have worn off since, nothing else has changed: The intricate chinoiserie still abounds in its decidedly nontacky glory; the booths are illuminated by amber lanterns and covered with a bamboo awning that girds the entire room. But as at any dive worth the name, the ethos at Chinese Village boils down to three essentials: fast, cheap and strong, with change back from your five-spot.
