From a homegrown sandwich shop with national ambitions comes accessible adventure, big-boy portions, friendly ethnic spins (hello, smoked coppa Cubano), and touches of danger (pork scraps and pepper heat roaming the “dirty fries”). This outpost squeezed inside ChefStable’s mini restaurant row in the West End also boasts well-chosen taps, cocktails, counter service, a lovely escarole Caesar, and the optional heap of homemade chicharrones. Owned by Grassa’s Rick Gencarelli (the two restaurants are next door to each other), Lardo is consistently solid—and the option to turn any sandwich into a salad should become an Oregon statute.
