Spicy, punishingly salty, and viscerally disconcerting, boodae chigae tastes like Campbell’s alphabet soup, Top Ramen, and Van Camp’s pork and beans on a drunken bender through Korea-town. Which makes sense, since the “army stew”—bobbing with Spam, tofu, duk rice cakes, and more—popped up around Seoul after the Korean War, as home cooks incorporated canned US Army rations into their kimchi
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