Nostril-flaring pickles, pastry-wrapped biryani, raita rumbling with garlic juice, baby eggplants resplendent with the crunch of coconut, sesame, and peanuts, and spice-roasted curries that look like swamps but taste like heaven. Make no mistake: Indian cooking has landed on a big plate—more precisely, on a stainless steel tray, or thali—at a well-kept Portland secret, Thali Supper Club. Assam native and local
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