Slide Show: North Country

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Chris Israel explores the alpine cuisine of northern Europe at his new restaurant, Grüner.

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Chris Israel explores the alpine cuisine of northern Europe at his new restaurant, Grüner.

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beet-pickled hard-boiled eggs

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beet-pickled hard-boiled eggs

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tarte flambée with onions, bacon, and creme fraiche

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tarte flambée with onions, bacon, and creme fraiche

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Israel in the kitchen at Grüner

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Israel in the kitchen at Grüner

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The line that divides Europe into two gastronomical regions is really a mountainous squiggle. North of the Alps, the cuisine is infused with butter, shallots, duck fat, and root vegetables. To the south, it’s all about the sun: olive oil, lemons, tomatoes, and thyme. Despite the fact that Portland’s climate resembles that of northern Europe, our restaurants tend to serve southern European fare. Survival might have something to do with it—food-inspired fantasies help us endure rain an…