Atlas took over SE Division Street’s Road Runner Café space in the spring of 2014, slinging as straightforward a New York slice as you’ll find in Portland: foldable, crispy yet chewy, and hedonistically cheesy. Atlas cooks up blue-collared pies like the Sluzrenko, with pepperoni, pineapple, and jalapeño, as well as essentially a Caesar salad on top of a pizza. But after a long night out, we go for the unsullied cheese slice—salty and greasy, with a nice, crunchy crust and a decent tomato sauce. Just don’t get fancy at the pizzeria’s bar: its takes on a strawberry lemonade and a blueberry mojito are a muddled mess of still-frozen fruit and unmeasured pours.