Image: David Reamer
WOOD–FIRE GRILLING is happily aflame in Portland, charring notable pizza crusts and blackening whole trouts across the city. This spring, chef Greg Denton is taking the trend to the next level, putting wood-fired cooking center stage at Ox, his new Northeast Portland restaurant. Six seats surround a state-of-the-art, hand-cranked grill at the heart of the dining room, where whole lamb shoulders, freshly stuffed chorizo, and sultry blood sausage blister and caramelize before diners’ wide eyes.
With its adventurous Argentine cuisine, Ox is poised to change the landscape of Portland’s largely timid South American food ventures. Denton, formerly chef at the Pearl District’s Metrovino, is best known as a meat-auteur—and the brains behind Portland’s most extravagant 16-piece charcuterie board. His wife, Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton, has cooked at his side since they met at Napa Valley’s famed Terra restaurant in 1999. To Denton’s mad-scientist approach to meat, Quiñónez adds childhood recollections of Ecuador’s open-air markets and crimping empanadas de viento alongside her grandmother.
“Traditionally, Ecuador couldn’t afford the same expensive cattle as Argentina, says Quiñónez, “but all of the flavors and the staples of our cuisine are nearly identical.” To pair with Ox’s Northwest-inspired version of chimichurri, the ubiquitous South American condiment, the chefs substitute lusciously textured halibut for steak and add fresh peas and mint to showcase May’s bright flavors. With crispy skins and smoky char, Ox is poised to make serious grill marks on Portland’s ever-expanding international food scene.
Grilled Halibut with Mint Chimichurri
(Serves 4)
Image: David Reamer
Halibut
- 1 ¼ lb cleaned halibut fillet, divided into 4 portions
- Olive oil to coat
- Kosher salt to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Mint chimichurri*
(1) BRUSH the halibut with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. (2) PLACE on a hot grill that has been rubbed with oil, and cook to desired doneness (for an average 1-inch fillet, 3–4 minutes on one side and 2 minutes on the other over a medium flame). (3) REMOVE and top each fillet with a generous spoonful of chimichurri.
*Mint Chimichurri
- ½ cup fresh Italian parsley leaves, chopped
- 2 tbsp fresh spearmint, chopped
- 1 tbsp fresh oregano, chopped
- ½ cup yellow onion, minced
- 1 tsp fresh garlic, finely minced
- ½ cup good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tbsp fresh Meyer lemon juice
- 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 1 ½ tsp kosher salt
- 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
COMBINE all ingredients and let sit for at least half an hour and up to one day.
POTATOES AND PEAS
- 1 ½ lb new potatoes, scrubbed
- Kosher salt to taste
- 1 ½ cup shucked English peas (removed from the pod)
- 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- Freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
(1) PLACE potatoes in a pot and cover with water. (2) ADD 1–2 tablespoons of salt and bring to a boil. (3) REDUCE to a simmer and cook until just tender. (4) REMOVE from water and set aside to cool. (5) BRING a small pot of fresh water to a boil. (6) ADD a tablespoon of salt and blanch the peas for approximately 30 seconds. (7) REMOVE peas from the hot water and cool in an ice-water bath. (8) DRAIN off the water and set aside in a large bowl. (9) TOSS the potatoes with the olive oil, salt, and pepper, and place on a hot grill that has been rubbed or sprayed with oil. (10) COOK for approximately 2 minutes on one side and 2 minutes on the other, or until they start to brown and get grill marks. (11) REMOVE potatoes from the grill and place in the large bowl with the peas. (12) ADD approximately 1 cup chimichurri to the potatoes and peas and toss gently to coat. Serve hot, room temperature, or cold.
Garnish
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
4 medium garlic cloves, peeled and sliced thin
8 French breakfast radishes (or globe radishes), sliced thin
(1) HEAT 1 tbsp of olive oil and the garlic slices in a small pot over very low heat and cook gently until the garlic starts to color. (2) REMOVE from heat, and as soon as the garlic turns a golden brown place in a small bowl and add the other tablespoon of olive oil to stop the cooking process.
TO SERVE: Place the potato and English pea salad in the center of the plate and put the halibut on top. Garnish the halibut with the fried garlic chips and a small drizzle of the garlic oil. Scatter the radish slices all over the dish, and serve.
Published in the Best of the City 2012 issue of Portland Monthly.
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