Image: Bitna Chung
Each holiday season brings a festive mob scene at the Portland Farmers Market. Shoppers scramble, juggling swollen gourds, golden pears, and tart cranberries. Roots protrude from canvas bags like crazy hallucinations: contorted salsify, fuchsia carrots, and parsnips so big you could joust with them. Amid the annual chaos, local cookbook author and Thanksgiving specialist Diane Morgan found inspiration for the holiday table—and for Roots, her recently released tome that delves deep into the underworld of tubers, rhizomes, and corms.
Morgan spent the better part of two years researching taproots, quizzing knowledgeable farmers on crosne—a tiny tuber pronounced “crone”—and tapping local Portland chefs for their secret daikon kimchi recipes. And while her 400-page book draws from global traditions that range from South America to Southeast Asia, most of the roots flourish in the fertile soils of Oregon.
Roots, Morgan believes, are the unsung heroes of the Thanksgiving side dish, quilted under marshmallows or tangled with creamed spinach. She makes a strong case for putting them front and center, employing them in a purée of celery root with sweet Anjou pears for an upgrade on the usual mashed potatoes, or sautéed in a farro salad with pearl onions and grapes for a healthy, toothsome alternative to classic stuffing. As you lay the plans for your November feasting, turn your attention to Oregon’s underground bounty, and let some new traditions of your own take root.
1 Savory Holiday Carrot Pudding
Serves 8–10
- 5 large carrots (about 1½ lbs), trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1-inch chunks
- 2 tsp fresh lemon juice
- 5 tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
- ¼ cup granulated sugar
- 1 tbsp all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
- ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
- 2 tbsp grated yellow onion
- 1 cup milk
- 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
(1) POSITION a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. (2) COAT a 2-quart soufflé dish with 1 tbsp butter. (3) COVER carrots with 1 inch of water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. (4) REDUCE to a simmer and cook carrots until tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes. (5) DRAIN carrots, let cool slightly, transfer to a food processor, and process until smooth. (6) ADD lemon juice, process to combine, and transfer to a small bowl. (The carrots can be prepared up to 2 days in advance, covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before making the pudding.) (7) Add onion, remaining 4 tbsp butter, sugar, flour, salt, pepper, cinnamon, and nutmeg to the puréed carrots, and stir until fully incorporated. (8) ADD milk and eggs, and mix until smooth. (9) SPOON mixture into the prepared dish, smoothing the top. (10) BAKE uncovered until pudding is puffed and lightly browned and center is firm to the touch, 50 minutes to 1 hour.
2 Celery Root Purée with Anjou Pear
Serves 8
- 1 large celery root (about 1½ lbs), trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1-inch chunks
- Kosher salt
- 4 tbsp unsalted butter
- 4 Anjou pears (about 2 lbs), peeled, halved, cored, and cut into 1-inch chunks
- ½ cup dry vermouth
- ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
- ½ cup heavy whipping cream, warmed
- Freshly ground white pepper
(1) COVER celery root with 1 inch of water in a large saucepan. (2) ADD 1 tsp salt, cover partially, and bring to a boil over high heat. (3) REDUCE heat to a simmer and cook until tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes. (4) DRAIN celery root in a colander, return to pan over low heat for 1 minute to evaporate any excess moisture, and set aside. (5) MELT butter over medium heat in a large frying pan. (6) ADD pears and ½ tsp salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until pears are soft, about 5 minutes. (7) ADD vermouth and nutmeg, and continue cooking until pears are very soft and sauce thickens, about 5 minutes more. (8) COMBINE half each of celery root, pears, and whipping cream in a food processor and purée until completely smooth. (9) TRANSFER to a warmed serving bowl. (10) REPEAT with remaining celery root, pears, and cream, add to bowl, and season with salt and white pepper.
3 Farro with Carrots, Red Grapes, and Pearl Onions
Serves 8–10
- 4 cups chicken stock
- 2 cups water
- 2 cups farro
- 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 ½ cups frozen pearl onions, thawed and halved lengthwise
- 1 ½ cups seedless red grapes, halved lengthwise
- 1 large garlic clove, minced
- 4 medium carrots, trimmed, peeled, and thinly sliced
- 1 tbsp finely minced fresh rosemary
- 1 tbsp finely minced fresh thyme leaves
- 1 tbsp kosher salt
- ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
- ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
(1) COMBINE stock and water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. (2) ADD farro, reduce to a simmer, and cover partially. (3) COOK until soft but still with a bit of firmness at the center, 20–45 minutes. (4) DRAIN farro in a sieve placed over a heatproof bowl, reserving broth and setting farro aside in a separate bowl. (5) HEAT 2 tbsp of oil over medium heat in a large, nonstick sauté pan and add pearl onions, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. (6) ADJUST heat to low and continue to sauté, stirring occasionally, until onions are browned and caramelized at edges, about 7 minutes. (7) ADD remaining 1 tbsp oil over medium heat and add garlic and carrots, stirring frequently until soft but not brown, about 3 minutes. (8) ADD grapes, rosemary, and thyme, and sauté for 1 minute longer. (9) STIR in reserved farro, 2/3 cup of reserved broth, and salt and pepper. (10) ADD parsley, stir to combine, and cook 1 minute longer.
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