Image: Lincoln Barbour
A veteran of ultraseasonal fine-dining destinations like Park Kitchen, Stewart opened Meat Cheese Bread in 2008, setting out to refashion his white-tablecloth talents for complex flavors, tricky procedures, and extravagant ingredients for the humble sandwich form. As soon as the first, purple-tipped stalks of the season arrive, Stewart begins crafting his asparagus sandwich, stacking green spears on airy loaves of Fleur De Lis ciabatta and selling them by the dozen to hungry locals.
At the core of Stewart’s recipe is the happy marriage of asparagus and eggs. It’s a classic Italian pairing wherein asparagus is the bright star, whether shaved into a frittata, baked under poached eggs, or blanched into salade niçoise. The key ingredient in Meat Cheese Bread’s riff on the tradition is a hearty bacon relish. “It adds a nice smokiness and acidity that cuts through the richness of the egg,” Stewart says. Paired with simply grilled asparagus and a shaving of parmesan, it’s one of the most satisfying ways to showcase Oregon’s supreme spring vegetable.
Grilled Asparagus Sandwich
Image: Lincoln Barbour
- 1 baguette
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- ½ cup aioli* (or mayonnaise)
- 1 bunch asparagus, bottoms removed
- 4 eggs
- ½ cup bacon relish**
- ¼ cup shaved parmesan
(1) CUT baguette into 4 sandwiches, drizzle with olive oil, and toast face down in a warm frying pan. (2) TOSS asparagus with oil, salt, and pepper, and grill or sauté in a pan over medium heat until lightly browned. (3) ADD eggs to boiling water and cook for 9 minutes. (4) SUBMERGE eggs in an ice bath, peel, and slice. (5) SPREAD aioli on both sides of the toasted bread and distribute asparagus on the sandwiches. (6) TOP each with a sliced egg and a scoop of bacon relish. (7) SHAVE parmesan over the top and eat while hot.
*Aioli
(Makes 1 cup)
- 1 egg yolk
- Juice of 1 lemon
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- ½ tsp Dijon mustard
- ½ cup canola oil
- ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt and pepper
(1) WHISK together all ingredients except oil and lemon juice in a medium bowl or food processor. (2) DRIZZLE in oil slowly while whisking or blending until mixture is the consistency of mayonnaise, gradually adding lemon juice to taste.
**Bacon Relish
(Makes 1 cup)
- ¼ cup minced bacon
- ¼ cup minced onion
- 1 clove minced garlic
- ¼ cup chicken stock
- 1 tsp sherry vinegar
- Salt and pepper
(1) COOK bacon in a saucepan over low heat until completely rendered. (2) ADD onions and garlic and cook until onions are translucent. (3) DEGLAZE with chicken stock over low heat, scraping the bottom of the pan for a minute. (4) TURN off heat and add sherry vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste.
Published in the Hot Breakfast Spots issue of Portland Monthly.
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