Stay
THE INN AT MANZANITA
innatmanzanita.com; from $179
Don’t look for coastal kitsch at this perfectly situated inn, tucked inside a lush patch of property abutting Manzanita’s main drag. Split among four buildings, many of the inn’s 14 modern, tastefully appointed rooms boast colossal hot tubs, and second-floor units serve up peeks of the sun as it plunges into the Pacific.
OLD WHEELER HOTEL
oldwheelerhotel.com; from $99
Built in 1920, when Wheeler’s lumber industry flourished, the Old Wheeler Hotel has become the historic heart of this tiny rail town, minutes southeast of Manzanita. A stay here feels like a step back in time, into a world of antique furniture, hardwood floors, and ornate décor. Overlooking Nehalem Bay, the hotel’s eight elegantly dressed rooms come with water views that treat guests to an endless show of swooping eagles and herons.
Eat
NEHALEM RIVER INN
nehalemriverinn.com
Rising from the banks of the Nehalem River, this namesake inn is a bastion of white tablecloths, fine wines, and unforgettable food in a land of paper napkins and fried fish. Chef-owner Ryan Hamic dreams up inventive dishes like crispy roasted quail with lentils, chard, chorizo, and cherry syrup, while his wife, Nicole, plies guests with worldly wines, her homemade desserts, and plenty of charm.
RISING STAR CAFÉ
risingstarcafe.com
With just 40 seats in one tiny house, Rising Star feels more like someone’s dining room than a restaurant. Nina Simone croons through the speakers, and proprietors Pepi Gabor and Ron Allen welcome you like a long-lost friend. And they serve you like one, too: you’ll need a second stomach to polish off the plates of seared tuna and richly spiced shrimp pasta that parade out of their kitchen.
WANDA’S CAFÉ & BAKERY
12870 H St, Nehalem; 503-368-8100
Bustling between vintage toasters, rotary phones, and television fish tanks, Wanda’s friendly staff serves plates loaded with steaming French toast, eggs benedict, and all manner of omelets with a lighthearted (but heavy-handed) side of ’50s diner frippery.
Do
SLEEPY MONK COFFEE ROASTERS
sleepymonkcoffee.com
For us spoiled city folk, coastal coffee is nothing to write home about. But Sleepy Monk presents a welcome exception, with 21 beautifully roasted organic coffees, such as the robust Monastery blend, all available at the cozy tasting room and roastery on Cannon Beach’s main drag.
GREAT NORTHERN GARLIC COMPANY
Laneda Avenue and Highway 101, Manzanita; 503-368-7700
Don’t be fooled: this isn’t a mere garlic lover’s paradise. It’s a picnic promised land packed with a local jams, Blue Heron cheese, handmade chocolates, Northwest wines and microbrews, and anything else you fancy for lunch on the sand. And if you show up on the right day, the beach just might come to you—in the form of fresh crabs cooking on the patio.
Evoo Cooking School
Image: Evoo Cooking School
EVOO CANNON BEACH COOKING SCHOOL
evoo.biz
True foodies know the satisfaction quotient of any meal skyrockets when you’ve cooked it yourself. Evoo owners Bob Neroni and Lenore Emery are well attuned to this formula after seven years of teaching casual, hands-on classes. Even better, at Evoo (named after extra-virgin olive oil), you’ll enjoy the satisfaction—and delicious results—of the whole cooking process, minus the cleanup.
How to Eat Like a Coastie
Owner of Depoe Bay’s Restaurant Beck and Food & Wine best new chef Northwest finalist Justin Wills gives us a tasty recipe for rockfish and local, foraged greens.
By Ben Tepler
Rockfish and Grilled Spring Salad
ROCKFISH
- 1 ½ pounds rockfish, divided into four 6-ounce portions
- 1 tsp fennel pollen (available at In Good Taste)
- 1 tsp semolina
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 1 tbsp grape-seed oil
1. Combine fennel pollen, semolina, and salt. 2. Season rockfish with semolina-fennel rub. 3. Over medium-high heat, sauté fish in grape-seed oil until golden brown, then turn and cook for 2–3 more minutes.
GRILLED SPRING SALAD*
- 2 bunches ramps (or scallions)
- ¼ cup orange juice
- 1 tsp sugar
- 2 tbsp rice vinegar
- ¹/³ cup grape-seed oil
- 1 handful wild wood sorrel (or plain sorrel)
- 1 handful watermelon radish (or plain radish), shaved or sliced thin
1. Grill ramps with grape-seed oil (to coat) and salt (to taste) until tender. Remove from grill and cut into 1 ½–inch pieces. Place in mixing bowl.
2. Combine orange juice, sugar, and rice vinegar, and slowly beat grape-seed oil into mixture.
3. Add radishes and sorrel to bowl with ramps. Dress lightly with vinaigrette, season with salt.
*Greens available at the PSU farmers market, or swap them out for supermarket-friendly alternatives.
Foodie Treasures
North to South
KARLA’S SMOKEHOUSE
(Rockaway Beach)
2010 Hwy 101 N; 503-355-2362
Claiming “the best smoked fish in the United States of America,” Karla’s Smokehouse has been attracting an exuberant congregation of believers to Rockaway Beach for 46 years. Each day, Karla Steinhauser posts a sign on her teal door announcing the fresh catch and when you can get it. If you see black cod posted, run—don’t walk—to the nearest store to buy an extra cooler. This favorite sells out fast, and you’ll want as much as you can carry.
JETTY FISHERY MARINE RV & PARK
(Rockaway Beach)
jettyfishery.com
This weathered Rockaway Beach marina and RV park near Nehalem Bay is an ideal place to catch your own snack: crabbing, clamming, and fishing abound. Then again, so do the giant silver pans of just-shucked clams, oysters, and steamed Dungeness crab that have been caught and prepared for you.
Pelican Pub & Brewery
Image: Pelican Pub & Brewery
PELICAN PUB & BREWERY
(Pacific City)
yourlittlebeachtown.com/pelican
Pelican’s award-winning craft beers, pitch-perfect food pairings, and Pacific-snuggling location—practically within spitting distance of the surf—never get old. But this year, the perennial Great American Beer Festival winner offers something new, too: the Ankle-Buster Ale, a spicy, caramel brew guaranteed to melt away any road-trip weariness.
TIDAL RAVES SEAFOOD GRILL
(Depoe Bay)
tidalraves.com
It’s little wonder that this upscale restaurant starred as Charlize Theron’s place of work in the 2008 movie The Burning Plain: with fairyland vistas over Depoe Bay’s dramatic cliffs and frothy waves, every seat at Tidal Raves is a treat. If you can peel your eyes away from the ocean, you’ll find that the menu of expertly prepared halibut tacos, smoked salmon chowder, and a daily cheesecake option is a worthy distraction. (Just ask Charlize.)
THE GREEN SALMON COFFEE CO
(Yachats)
thegreensalmon.com
The only thing more mouthwatering than this convivial gathering spot’s house-roasted coffee—available brewed, pulled, or in signature drinks like the café Hawaiian (coconut milk latte with organic sugar and whipped cream)—are the grilled sandwiches you’ll be pairing with it. Our pick: the Nu-Yorka, an apt ode to the Big Apple stacked with turkey pastrami, swiss, and sauerkraut.
WATERFRONT DEPOT
(Florence)
thewaterfrontdepot.com
Making reservations is a must at this not-so-secret Florence gem. Housed in a 1913 train station on the Siuslaw River, the cozy, dimly lit Waterfront Depot marries the flavors of Indonesia, San Francisco, and the Pacific Northwest, with highlights like crab-encrusted halibut, Portuguese fish stew, and braised lamb shank—all for less than $15 each.
BRANDY PEAK DISTILLERY
(Brookings)
brandypeak.com
After helping yourself to sun-ripened blackberries from brambly bushes up and down the coast, it’s only appropriate that you sample the liquid version: Brandy Peak Distillery’s blackberry liqueur. Made from fresh fruit picked within miles of the distillery, the liqueur can be enjoyed alongside eight other fruit brandies and grappas in Brandy Peak’s rustic tasting room, nestled in a coastal forest outside Brookings.
Published in the 70 Ways to Discover the Oregon Coast issue of Portland Monthly.
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