At Ben and Esther’s, a Jewish inspired bagel/deli hybrid opened in late 2019 in Northeast Portland’s Roseway neighborhood, you can find a homestyle bowl of matzo ball soup and a fragrant wedge of noodle kugel studded with raisins, among other offerings. Here, there are bialys, but usually only on Saturdays, and they’ve been known to sell out before 9 a.m.