Our 2019 Restaurant of the Year is now an icon of affordable fun—and if anything, better than ever. Soak it in at sidewalk huts or the bumping café-bar. The hit parade includes brisket burnt end coconut curry and a luscious smoked lamb shoulder massaman number. BBQ fried rice is a house star, euphorically spicy. Some impressive new dishes have joined the party: herb-singing shrimp and pomelo salad and lusty smoked pork belly burnt ends. Luscious umbrella drinks are not so much sipped as sucked down exuberantly, as if this were the last hour on Earth. What a way to go. Good luck parking and battling the lines.