The dishes at this wine-focused Vancouver restaurant need quite a bit of tuning. Too many outdated plating concepts get in the way of the food at times. We'd go back for more of that tender, rich, milk-fed veal chop, for example, were it not for the accompanying celery-root purée, which was served very cold, smeared on the plate in the form of so-last-year skid marks. While there’s a sound culinary concept anchoring this dish, its execution requires some rethinking.