Former Little Bird and Taylor Railworks chef Erik Van Kley is in the process of remixing this longtime Belmont eatery, a space that’s hummed along since 2009—always on the verge, but never quite vaulting beyond neighborhood date spot. So far, we're drawn to Van Kley’s Little Bird impulses, where goat cheese gnocchi hunkers down in a rich vat of tomato sauce and roasted goat leg. Tortellini en brodo doubles the pleasure with crusty, thick-cut toast parked on the side and Parmesan shreds cascading over every inch of the bowl and plate. Order it. Also worth knowing is the new chocolate budino tart, each bite shot through with cocoa nibs.