Portland’s take on Chinese street-food fixation jian bing folds giant savory crêpes and super-crunchy crackers into a many-splendored breakfast thing. The cart’s crêpes skew pretty traditional: a cracked egg cooked and raked right into a crêpe, which is browned, flipped, and brushed with black bean paste, hoisin sauce, and chile paste. Then comes fresh cilantro, scallions, pickled bamboo and mushrooms, two fried wontons the size of attaché cases, and a swift triple-fold—all of it cut in half and paper-wrapped. In a city perennially fixated on brunch, sandwiches, and spicy Asian eats, jian bing fits right in.