Biwa mashes up indie Portland and the izakaya, a Japanese bar where customers can drink beer and sake while nibbling on small plates of, say, Korean beef tartare topped with a quail egg, or a lusty, late-night-only burger with marinated pork and kimchi mayo. Other menu finds include yakimono (grilled skewers of chicken thigh, hanger steak, mackerel, lamb, or shiitakes) and some of the city’s best ramen, served in a savory dashi broth and topped with egg or grated daikon or barbecued pork or seaweed.