Johnny Leach, a former chef de cuisine in David Chang’s New York restaurant empire, riffs on Mexico City’s cosmopolitan food scene through the lens of local bounty and a side of “just cooking what we like to eat” attitude. The must-try? House chips with three salsa options: a bright, live-wire tomatillo-Thai basil; a sweet oniony roja with a barbecue sauce glow; and a savory peanut-ancho. Beyond that—with a few exceptions—the menu is still struggling to find its through-line. With some soul-searching, Chalino can still right the ship.