Dinners are high-end homey. Seasonality is a touchstone. The nerdy wine list impresses. Service is total pro. Yet, you never forget you’re in laid-back Portland, dining on a sleepy residential corner beneath idyllic Mt. Tabor Park. Dishes are pretty but not studied, interesting but never try too hard. Go chef’s choice or à la carte, lovely soups to spring raab tempura to full-on lamb osso bucco. Socca, a rolled chickpea pancake, crackles like a giant, grill-toasted potato chip. The deluxe package deal: caviar and house onion bread to start; a box of Coquine’s epic chocolate chip cookies delivered with the check. Next door’s Coquine Market is also a sweet morning coffee and pastry shop and a super casual evening café, walk-ins only.