Everyone’s been pinching pennies lately, but the power players frolicking in this dimly lit, Sinatra-inspired dining room don’t seem to have noticed. Perhaps they’re distracted by the high-quality dry-aged steaks, a fine Caesar salad, and a wickedly delicious bananas Foster (flambéed tableside) at prices that remind us of the surplus-happy Clinton years. Still, El Gaucho has a soft spot for the budget diner, as witnessed by the crowd of la vie de bohème types happily cavorting in the bar at happy hour, where an angus beef burger with a wedge salad only sets you back $22.