Candlelight spotlights what matters here: two turntables spinning vintage moods, outsized images of old European movies projected on the wall, drinks balanced like the scales of justice, and heat-seeking Asian snacks dispatched with ornate gold silverware. Then there are the corn dogs remodeled with spicy Chinese sausage, or the Korean-fried game hen blistered beneath pickled watermelon ranch dressing. But owner/bar master Kyle Webster’s eight nightly cocktails are the show, meant to pair with top chef Naomi Pomeroy’s loose take on Southeast Asian street eats. It could feel pretentious if all weren’t so damn good. Bonus: one of the city's most excellent brunches, Asian-spiced stoner waffles to fish sauce fuming Bloody Marys.