When this bright bulb of a shop first winked on in 2006, it helped herald a stretch of NE Killingsworth now locked in a perpetual food-and-drink gentrification. Today, a cheerful robin’s-egg-blue La Marzocco machine sits next to the open roasting station, where serious-faced technicians live the artisanal dream. Mismatched antique tables fill with Apple-tapping youth and earnest conversation. Once a harbinger of the new, Extracto has matured into a reliable place to check Portland’s pulse.