After six years in the Pearl District, the neighborhood’s most elegant trattoria landed a new chef: Peter Schuh, an alumnus of New York City’s celebrated Per Se. On the surface, not much has changed: Same white tablecloth sensibility, same eager-to-please waitstaff. Schuh continues his predecessor’s tradition of melding three divergent cuisines (Italian with some French and American thrown in) into one memorable experience. The results: Willapa Bay sturgeon over chive potato gnocchi bathed in crème fraîche with trout roe; pancetta-wrapped veal loin medallions with a rich ragù of osso buco and the signature dessert—a warm and comforting chocolate cake.