Tortas on toasted bolillos are the show at this hopping neighborhood spot. The carnitas-stuffed torta ahogada—planted in a pool of achiote tomato sauce for “dipping or drowning”—skips across the tongue like a smiling demon, messy, spicy, wicked delicious. Desayuno, another fave, taps braised beef and chicharrón de queso to upgrade the fried-egg sandwich. The mile-high hamburguesa has its own following, towering with avocado and ham and queso Oaxaca. Meanwhile, one of the city’s best bowls lives here, its pinto beans, lime rice, and esquites swathed in avocado dressing and condiments. No shortage of mezcal or good tunes.