When Simpatica owners Ben Dyer, Jason Owens, and Dave Kreifels dissolved their restaurant in 2017, they couldn’t quite quit their decade-plus of morning meals. So, they remixed their brunch into a full-service restaurant featuring Simpatica standards (the tender pâte à choux waffles are here), as well as lighter, heathier fare (plus cocktails, of course). It might be the only place in town you can order a gravy-slathered chicken-fried pork loin and an acai bowl dusted with spirulina. The comfort dishes are the real draw so far. The B.P.C. (a banana-enhanced pancake) is one of the most happy-making menu bait-and-switch jobs in town: it’s actually an entire cake for breakfast. Each arrives still sizzling in its own small cast-iron pan: fluffy, bronzed-cornered, and banana-whispering, strewn with toasty nuts, deluged with tart lemon curd and a flourish of berries. Order one for the table.