This charming spot evokes small-town Italy and the best of Portland, from the handmade ambience to candlelit grocery shelves. The space has the feel of a ladylike hardware store, with teeny tables, indoors and out. Unadorned plates carry the kitchen’s paean to honest Italian food: pasta, fresh focaccia, and olive oil cake. Make a party out of the $2 antipasti list, slurp a truly soulful cappelletti in brodo, or make hay on insider favorites—stuffed trout, octopus with potatoes, and a hunk of blackened cabbage seemingly cooked by an ironworker, twinkling with garlic oil. Nearly everything is under $20, and the terrific Italian wine list is priced to drink.