The dimly lit den of reclaimed wooden planks and mismatched particleboard tables fashioned from recycled bicycle wheels looks just as comfortably at home on the hip North Mississippi Avenue as it would on a roadside in Bangkok. And while the menu features a few familiar standbys, such as pad thai and chicken satay, the heart of Mee Sen lies in its rare noodle dishes. Order the house specialty, guay tiew, and mix and match your choice of bouncy noodles in combinations like the Thai-style stewed chicken, served in a sugary soy chicken broth, or the light-as-air fishballs in vegetable broth with red bean sauce.