The conspicuously red two-story house in Sellwood’s lazy downtown feels more residential than commercial: picnic tables in the small backyard are surrounded by unpainted fences and shrub, a stone walkway, and the bustle of families. So you’ll feel no guilt letting your kids (allowed till 8 p.m.) run free while you nosh on one of Muddy’s signature organic flour pizzas with pecorino cheese—pies that rival some of the best of Portland’s pizza pantheon.