OK Omens values comfort, professionalism, and relatable bistro-modern riffs in a seat-of-its-pants DIY city. House somm Brent Braun has his own following for his zine-like glass menu, strong bottle list, and abiding Riesling obsession. One pour was simply listed as “Natural Red from Oregon’s Most Interesting Winery.” I’m intrigued. You? Musings from high-caliber chef Justin Woodward (Castagna) swing from duck leg confit to burnt beets and tahini to a burger with smoked beef fat remoulade. For dessert, salute to a kitchen that dares to serve Escoffier’s peach melba with flicks of sansho pepper and coffee caramel crunch. Outdoors, the stately umbrella-covered gazebos feel like a forgotten civilization.