Wine guy Brent Braun brings his dogmatic tastes to OK Omens, a gastro-bar that, until 2018, served as the burger bistro to Castagna’s abstract glamour. Now, Castagna’s modernist chef, Justin Woodward, delivers a warm hug of a menu (Szechuan-pepper-dusted buttermilk fried chicken, crab pasta with a dab of fish sauce). But it’s Braun’s zine-like wine list—replete with natural, local upstarts and recently featuring “juice for skiin’” (Alpine wines) and a Purple Rain callout—that seals the deal. His real obsession is Riesling, the wine he says pairs best with Woodward’s cooking. Braun devotes an entire section to this “divisive” varietal, with 30-plus bottles from Wachau, Saar, and even Southern Oregon.