For oyster lovers in search of the quintessential raw experience, Olympia Oyster’s spare, small bar holds a curved, ornate ice chest of craggy, Northwest-grown half-shells. Behind that bar, staff skillfully shake up a short list of classic cocktails and pour well-chosen glasses of sparkling wine. Ambitious eaters can dive into an Asian- and Latin-inspired small plates menu—oddly organized with more mixed results than the raw choices. But trust the house to select a dozen “chef’s whim” oysters, then sip a dry, arctic gin martini, and brace for briny pleasure.