The panels are wood, the decorative ceramics collectible, and the skirt-and-tennis-shoe wearing waitresses chipper in a 1950s way. The collection of pancakes, waffles, crêpes, omelets, and “assorted dry cereal with pure whipping cream” is epic Americana, somewhere between IHOP and James Beard for lumberjack appetites. This ancient anchor of a national chain also produces the Dutch Baby, a golden, imperial crown of eggy dough and powdered sugar. Whetting your appetite is some of the city’s worst coffee, and some of its best orange juice.